Grub!: Home for the Holidays Edition

Monday, December 31, 2012

There are some foods you need to grow up with in order to really love them.  I think sardines fall into this category.  And Marmite, which we've talked about before.  Today, in our special Home For The Holidays edition of Grub! we're going to dive into another of those treats.  It's one that regularly causes the uninitiated to wrinkle their noses in disgust, which is just fine with me since it leaves more for those of us who know and love the delicacy.  Today's topic: steak and kidney pudding!

My four UK readers can skip this next bit, but those of you tuning in from North America might need a bit of a primer on pudding in its English sense.  If you grew up in North America and didn't happen to have a whole side of your family that brought over many English foods and traditions when they hopped on the boat in 1950, then in your limited experience probably pudding refers only to a very specific sort of chilled milky gelatin-based sweet dessert flogged by Bill Cosby and popular in lunch boxes.  Thus you might be slightly horrified at the thought of a bowl of chocolate pudding with chunks of beef and kidney floating in it. Fear not!  In England the term pudding encompasses soooo much more than just the gloopy dessert.

(Jell-O related aside: In England, the neon-coloured clear wobbly stuff that we'd call Jell-O is generically called "jelly".  And what do they call jelly?  Weirdly, there is no specific word for the seedless fruity breakfast spread over here.  Jelly just gets lumped in heartlessly under the "jam" label, which seems sad.)

But back to pudding.  In one sense, "pudding" refers to the entire panoply of sweet stuff you might have at the end of a meal.  In fact, the course called dessert is often called pudding here, which I find just charming.  As in, "What's for pudding, mum?" (Another aside: It's definitely Mum with a U in England, not Mom with an O.  And you can really hear the difference.)  Sadly, the term pudding is slowly being supplanted by dessert, which I also find kind of sad.  It's like hearing "fries" instead of "chips" or "cookies" instead of "biscuits" and feels like the last small tumble in the fall of the Empire.

More specifically, "pudding" can refer to a whole family of cakey sort of things that are cooked by steam, and can include both sweet and savoury options.  Christmas pudding is probably the best known pudding out there, but other favourites include the most excellent Sticky Toffee Pudding, and the giggle-inducing Spotted Dick.  On the savoury side the most famous is probably Yorkshire pudding, though it's not steamed but rather baked, so don't ask me why it's called pudding. Just accept that there's room for everybody under the pudding umbrella and be thankful if you've got a nice Yorkshire pudding on your plate, especially if there are lashing of gravy to go with it.

Steak and kidney is a favourite flavour combination that appears most frequently in pies. (Though even in England it's more likely you'll find steak and ale pie than steak and kidney.) In the pudding variety, the yummy filling of steak, kidney, onion, gravy and mushrooms is prepared in a pudding basin that's lined not with a standard pie-like pasty but a suet crust. Suet is the particular sort of fat that surrounds the kidneys and loin of cows, lamb and pigs and has a very high melting point, making it excellent for deep frying and pastry work. (It is also astonishingly high in saturated fat - 52% - so please don't plan on having it every day.)  A suet crust consists of flour, ground suet, baking powder, a bit of salt and water, making a sticky dough that is used to line a pudding basin.  The crust is then filled, covered in boiling water to seal the meat (and, critically, produce the gravy) topped with a lid of more suet crust and sealed up.

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A selection of pudding basins in various sizes.  A pudding basin is a heavy, deep ceramic bowl with a distinctive lipped edge at the top.  The lip is there because a pudding gets covered with a pudding cloth during cooking (see upper left corner of the photo) and the pudding cloth is tied onto the basin with a string that tucks nicely under the lippy edge of the basin, so it doesn't slide off the top.

Steak and Kidney - or "cake and sidney", as it was often known in my house, in a sort of warped semi-Cockney rhyming slang / malapropism-ish way - was a favourite Sunday supper that used to appear fairly regularly through the winter, and especially on Christmas Eve.  The Christmas Eve cake-and-sidney has the excellent advantage of producing, with any luck, enough leftovers that it can be sliced and pan-fried for a breakfast on Christmas morning. (At this point I realise that I'll have lost most of you who barely managed to hang on through the supper concept and again I say, "Go ahead and run, coward!  You don't know what you're missing!")

The Christmas Eve steak and kidney puddings of my childhood were always made by my grandmother in Moose Jaw. (To all UK Readers:  Yes, Moose Jaw.  And don't you get goofy about Saskatchewan place names because anyone who comes from a country with places called Boggy Bottom and Spitalin the Street frankly does not have a leg to stand on when it comes to mocking other people's place names.)

Mac the Moose
Mac the Moose of Moose Jaw.  Taken in a Tim Hortons parking lot in Moose Jaw, on a chilly December morning when I was getting ready to drive about two hours across the frozen prairie and turn exactly once (left) to get to my destination.  How Canadian Prairies is that?

Now that Grammy's gone the Pudding Master mantle has been taken up by my aunt Linda, who produces both the steak and kidney and Christmas puddings, based on Grammy's recipes from about 1920.  I've been thinking for a while that I need to blog about steak and kidney pudding, and I'd intended to attempt one in London at some point.  However, when I realised I could actually suck Lin into helping me, making use not only of her extensive pudding acumen but also her ample wardrobe of pudding basins, it seemed eminently sensible to give it a go while I was home.  So it was that I pitched up at Linda's house on the Sunday morning before Christmas with a pound of stewing beef in my bag for a lesson in the noble art of the steak and kidney pudding.

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Here's the Pudding Coach, set for the lesson.

It turns out steak and kidney pudding is really easy to make.  The suet crust pastry is especially forgiving.  You cut the suet (and optional butter for added lightness) into the flour and baking powder just like you were making pie crust, add the water, and mix it into a sticky dough.  But there's less worry about overworking the dough than with pie crust, and it ends up more elastic - sort of half way between biscuit dough and bread dough.  The filling requires nothing more than chopping the meat, onions and mushrooms into smallish chunks and dredging it all in a bit of seasoned flour before dumping into the lined pudding basin and topping.

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My steak and kidney pudding, ready for its lid.

The cooking of a pudding is an exceedingly cozy and relaxing event requiring one to hang about the house all day making sure that the pudding, which should be tucked into a big pot of simmering water on the back of the stove, is continually topped up with more boiling water.  This takes about five hours, thus making the tending of a steamed pudding a perfect activity for a Sunday afternoon.  It also leaves ample time to blog about the whole business while still making sure the the pudding doesn't boil dry.

I'm happy to report that my pudding turned out fine.  It was favourably reviewed both by a veteran steak and kidney pudding-eater and the S&K newbie, which just proves that even if you didn't grow up with the delicacy you can still come to appreciate it later in life if you are open and adventurous.

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My finished pudding

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The slightly out of focus pudding eaters

And best of all, this particular pudding turned out to be large enough to provide the aforementioned treat.  The next morning, it was carefully sliced and fried up in a particularly aged pan and served up for a stick-to-your ribs breakfast like no other.

Breakfast
Yes, I know this looks kind of like a pan full of dog food.  You'll just have to trust me.

And there you have it - an Old Country food served up in the New Country.  It was followed by a quiet and exceptionally frozen Christmas (-29 degrees, not including the wind chill), which was followed by an exceptionally Hellish trip home that went so badly it really deserves its own blog post, if I can muster the fortitude to relive it all.  For now, suffice it to say that I arrived back a mere 26 hours late after two cancelled flights and a pitstop in Houston, Texas.  'Nuf said.




P.S.  And because there's really nowhere else to put them, here are a few gratuitous photos of the prairie winter:

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Look at the colour of that sky!  

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Arty!

Words from home

Sunday, December 23, 2012

The glossary here at Go Stay Work Play Live now boasts more than a hundred definitions for uniquely Brit-speak words and phrases, and my list of words to add (when the mood strikes) is at least that long again.  However, I'm home in Canada for the holidays now so my sister suggested I turn the tables and give my UK readers (all four of you) a few Canadian words to ponder. And you Canadian readers might be surprised to realise that some of the words, phrases and concepts we take for granted are completely foreign to, err... foreigners.


Saskatchewan =  Obviously this isn't an unknown word, but it's one that most non-Canadians find almost impossible to deal with. It's properly pronounced, by native speakers, as Sus-KA-chu-wn. When they find out I'm Canadian, well-meaning people in the UK will often ask me what part of Canada I'm from and I quickly discovered that replying, "Saskatchewan" tends to send people into a bit of a tailspin.  Now I usually say "the flat bit in the middle" and, if pressed, elaborate with "it's the part that most people fly over between Toronto and Vancouver".

Saskatchewan
Map of Saskatchewan, exceedingly easy to draw in elementary school.  I once even made a cake in the shape of Saskatchewan for a baking contest.  It had the main rivers on it and it had the names of the large cities spelled out in Alpha-Bits.

elementary school = The first eight years of formal education.  After pre-school and kindergarten, kids go to elementary school.  Called primary school in other places, elementary school in Saskatchewan goes from Grade One to Grade Eight.

Grade One, Grade Two, Grade Three, etc... =  The terms for the different levels of elementary school.  In the UK this tends to be referred to as Year One, Year Two or, for our American cousins, First Grade, Second Grade and so on.

bunnyhug = hoodie. A hooded sweatshirt, sometimes with a zip up the front, but more properly a pullover with one big double-ended pocket on the front.  Only ever heard in Saskatchewan, bunnyhug and is perhaps the best shibboleth for discovering is someone really is from that province.  (Also: shibboleth! Love that word!). I have no idea of the derivation of this term, but I know that when I went away to school in Montreal I was roundly mocked by my classmates for the term.

Roughrider hoodie
A Saskatchewan Roughriders bunnyhug.

toque = pronounced TOOK to rhyme with duke or kook or suq.  A warm knitted hat worn in winter.  Coming from the coldest English-speaking country in the world, I think we Canadians have a right to decide the word for this particular article of clothing so listen up people: it's not a wooly cap, or a stocking cap, or a bobble hat or a watch cap or a knitted hat or any of those other lame attempts to put a name to what is clearly, obviously, simply, a toque.

Wall O' Toques
Wall O' Toques in the Mountain Equipment Co-Op, Calgary

Vi-Co = pronounced VIE-co, it's a brand name for chocolate milk that was produced in Saskatchewan from the mid fifties until the company was bought out in 1995.  The term vi-co was once used generically to mean any kind of chocolate milk.  The term is still occasionally found on truck stop menus in small towns.

23 hundred, 45 hundred etc... = It baffles me that I can say "seventeen hundred" to a Brit and they won't batt an eye.  But try "twenty-three hundred" or "forty-five hundred" and it's like you're speaking Greek.  Can anyone explain that to me?  In Canada, all the hundreds are, quite sensibly, up for grabs.

"Givin' er" = a phrase used to indicate great effort expended, or great speed achieved.  As in, "Me and Doug helped push this lady's car out of the parkade this morning and jeez we were just givin' er!" OR: "He was just givin' er comin' around that turn."

parkade = multi-storey carpark.  Distinct from a parking lot, which of course is only on one level.

butter tart = An individually sized sweet tart made with short crust pastry and filled with a cooked mixture of butter, sugar, vanilla, and egg.  The filling is similar to an American pecan pie, but without the pecans.  The addition of raisins is a common and commendable practice. Butter tarts are sweet and syrupy and uniquely Canadian and a good accompaniment to a double double. And don't forget your serviette.

Butter Tarts
Home made butter tarts

double double = a cup of coffee with two spoons of sugar and two dollops of cream.  Most associated with Tim Hortons doughnut shops, but now passed into common usage.  Note the cream here will likely be half-and-half or creamilk, a 10-15% fat, mixture of milk and cream which, despite the country's general excellence in all things cream-related, is unaccountably unavailable in the UK.

serviette = a paper napkin

Krazy Karpet = a four to six foot long by two foot wide roll of heavy flexible plastic sheet with handholds cut into one end used for sliding down a snow-covered hill at high speed.  The Krazy Karpet was a staple item in the winter toy repetoire of my childhood that sadly seems to be gone. Note that the practice of sliding down a snowy hill is called tobogganing - not sledding - regardless of whether you do it on a toboggan or a sled or a Krazy Karpet or a chunk of cardboard.


How fun is that?

Goalie Target
goalie = goalkeeper. Usually a hockey goalkeeper.  And don't even start with me about how "hockey" is that thing you play on a field with those weird, too-short, curved sticks.  That is FIELD hockey. (Shut up Jeremy.)

deke = verb. A hockey term that started as an abbreviation of "decoy".  As in "And here comes Lafleur on the breakaway!  He dekes left and puts one through the five hole!".  Can also be used in non-hockey related conversation in phrases like, "That guy totally deked me out to get to the shorter check-out line."

five hole = the area between the goalie's legs.  Based on the numbering of the holes in a typical practice target.  The corners are numbered one through four, leaving five for the tricky shot between the legs.

Old Dutch Chips = Old Dutch Foods Ltd is an American snack food company that opened a potato chip plant in Winnipeg in 1954.  Old Dutch chips are a prairie favourite, and come in a few standard flavours that would be alien to the UK crisp-eater: sour cream and onion, dill pickle and ketchup!  They've also got a unique treat called Popcorn Twists that taste like lightly salted styrofoam packing peanuts but melt on your tongue.

Old Dutch Chips
Ketchup Chips! Popcorn Twists! Dill Pickle Chips!

Eavestrough = those long, narrow troughs that hang on the edge of the eaves of a house to catch rainwater from the roof and direct it through downspouts and away from the foundation of the house.  Known elsewhere as gutters, but don't I think anyone could dispute that eavestrough is clearly the most appropriate term.

Slough = pronounced "sloo".  A prairie term for a small pond or body of water formed in a depression in the land.

Slough
A prairie slough, complete with duckings!

Thongs = flip flops.  Where I grew up we called those cheapie slip-on summer shoes thongs, which has nothing to do with underwear, thank you very much.

Thongs
Warning: do NOT google "thongs" and expect to get 
anything related to footwear...

Pop = sweet carbonated beverage.  Called soda in America and fizzy drink in the UK.  Pop is a good thing to have with the iconic Canadian convenience food: Kraft Dinner.

KraftDinnerKraft Dinner, or KD for short = marketed as Kraft Macaroni and Cheese in the US and Easy Mac in Australia, and referred to generically as "macaroni cheese" (note the absent "and") in the UK.  Kraft Dinner is as deeply ingrained in the Canadian psyche as hockey and jumper cables. Though the taste is in no way similar, I'd say it occupies the same part in the hearts and minds of Canadians that Heinz baked beans do in Brits. Consisting of a box of dry macaroni and an envelope of powdered cheese-like substance, KD is apparently the most popular grocery item in Canada.  In fact, the term "kraft dinner" is used to refer to any boxed mac 'n' cheese product.  It's a hands-down favourite with kids, a guilty pleasure for adults, and is often the first thing that young people learn to cook/assemble after leaving home.

KD
Powdery cheeselike substance, pre-mixing.
All that's required is a pot of salted boiling water.  Once the macaroni is cooked, the KD chef is instructed to add butter or margarine and milk, along with the nuclear-coloured cheese powder.  The directions on the box specify exact amounts of butter and milk, but most people use their inborn Canadian KD-sense to create their own perfect version, which will be somewhere on a continuum between soupy and stodgy, according to taste and upbringing.

Kraft Dinner is cheap and filling and comforting and infinitely adaptable. I like to add frozen peas in the last few minutes of cooking and then stir in canned tuna and extra cheese.  Many people add ketchup (yuck), or sliced wieners.  It's also quite nice with a dollop of condensed tomato soup for a creamy tomatoey bowl of yumminess.

You know, if there's room in my suitcase, I just might have to take a few boxes of Kraft Dinner back to London with me.  It never hurts to have a taste of home to fall back on when needed.

KD
The lovely and talented CB, playing the part of typical Canadian Kid With Bowl of KD



Ok that was kind of fun.  I might have to make this reverse-glossary-blog-post-thing a yearly tradition.  There's so much material to cover.  Like rice krispie cake, and Canadian Tire money, and chinooks and teen burgers and bumper-dragging and... well you'll have to tune in next year to find out.

Oh, and Merry Christmas!

Accent on... err... accents

Tuesday, December 18, 2012

I mentioned in my last post about the circuitous route I had getting back to Canada for Christmas this year. I started on a flight from Heathrow to Newark, New Jersey which was naturally populated mostly by Brits and Americans.  The hop from New Jersey to Denver was, unsurprisingly, full of Americans.  But when I got to the departure lounge in Denver for a flight from Denver to Saskatoon I could tell, right away, that this was a flight to Canada. There must be a sort of patriotic version of gay-dar that kicks in with ex-pats when they sense they are among their own kind. It might be a little bit about dress and temperament. But mostly, it's about the accent.  I listened in on conversations in that departure lounge and smiled to myself and thought, "These are my people!"

For most of my life I've been unable to hear my own accent and I think that's probably not unusual for people who grow up speaking English in North America.  This means that, despite the fact that "My Fair Lady" is one of my favourite shows ever, I didn't appreciate until I got to London exactly how important and defining an accent is over there.  The pervasiveness of the class system in England is a topic far beyond my ability to either explain or even comprehend so don't expect a scholarly essay on that topic here any time soon.  However, despite the fact that people would probably agree class plays a smaller role than it once did, it is still inescapable.  And one of the most blatant markers of class is accent.

Here's a little anecdote about how inescapably perceptions of class and power are tied to accent.  I have a colleague who told me a story about when he was called for jury duty.  His accent is what is often referred to as "Received Pronunciation" or sometimes "BBC English": a standard "posh" accent.  As Wikipedia says, "Although there is nothing intrinsic about RP that marks it as superior to any other variety, sociolinguistic factors have given Received Pronunciation particular prestige in parts of Britain.  It has thus been the accent of those with power, money and influence since the early to mid 20th century...". So my friend sat through the trial alongside his fellow jurors and eventually found himself in the jury room to deliberate the case.  As instructed by the judge, the first thing the group did was to decide on a foreman.  Whether they'd already had the chance to chat with each other, or whether they did introductions in the jury room is not clear.  What is clear is that my friend was the only one in the room with a posh accent.  What's also clear is that with no previous discussion or vote, the rest of the members of the jury turned to him and said, "So you'll be the foreman, then."  His accent clearly marked him as the leader, and everyone in the room simply acknowledged it and got down to business.

(This is the kind of thing that makes me realises I'll never truly understand the culture simply because I didn't grow up in it.  It's like trying to learn Japanese and being unable to master it completely without an inborn understanding of your status relative to everyone else in the room, which affects salutations and honorifics and verb forms, the subtleties of which make the choice between vous and tu akin to  Leonardo choosing between a 6" wide wallpaper brush and a medium pile paint roller when approaching the Mona Lisa.)



Here's another story about Received Pronunciation which may be apocryphal, but I never claimed to be an authority on the subject, and three-quarters of this blog is just crap I pull out of thin air anyways.  (Anyways!  Very Canadian that: anywayS instead of anyway.) Anywaaaaays - its quite common in the UK for front line call centre staff to have a Geordie accent.


Astute GSWPL readers will remember Geordie Mouse from a previous Words post, but I couldn't resist bringing him back.

Apparently there is something friendly and comforting about having your concerns listened to by someone with a Geordie accent.  However, if the conversation heats up and the call has to be transferred up the ladder to an authority figure, you can bet that someone will have an RP accent.  When Brits need to exhibit power and control, nothing beats Received Pronunciation.

But back to me.  I've been living away from Canada for three years now and it's taken that long for my ears to start to hear what for others my be blatant.  I think this is partly because Canada has relatively little variation in regional accents.  Apart from the obvious - the Newfie/Martiime accent (which owes a lot to Ireland) and the Quebec accent (which isn't really fair since French speaking Quebecers are naturally going to sound different when working in a second language) - Canadian English is a pretty homogenous thing.  I'm leaning heavily on Wikipedia here, but the good people there only list nine different varieties of Canadian English, which is frankly about five more than I would have guessed.  Contrast that with the UK, which has thirty three and that's not including Northern Ireland or the Republic or the Channel Islands.  Perhaps it's no wonder the English are so sensitive to accents - they are positively bathed in them from birth.

Then again, not everyone over here is a natural born Henry Higgins.  Some time ago I was standing on the sidewalk waiting for an errant truck to arrive to load something in or out of somewhere.  As I was peering up and down the street trying to locate my truck a woman walking on the other side called out to me, asking if I knew where the train station was.  I replied in my standard West/Central Canadian accent and when I finished she looked at me and asked, "Are you Welsh?".  Ummm... yeah sure... and the Queen is from Yellowknife.


Eve Myles and "Torchwood" taught me what a Welsh accent sounds like. Plus the show rocks.

So it's been three years now, and I'm finally starting to be able to hear whispers of what shouts at everyone else.  And I've realised that I dial my own accent up or down according to the circumstance (except when I've had a few pints, when the Canadian vowels apparently get a bit thick).  I think this flexibility comes from travelling so much and spending so much time interacting with people for whom English is a second (or third, or ninth) language. It feels natural to knock the corners off a bit and contract the vocabulary to give non English natives a fighting chance.  Maybe that's stuck with me now that I'm settled abroad; it's not that I expect people won't be able to understand me in an English speaking country, it's just kind of an instinct.  So when I'm in England, I keep my accent down to a dull roar.  Still, no one will ever mistake me for a local and I can never envision a time when I'd be able to say "I could have DAWNCED all night" without feeling like a complete fraud.  My foreign-ness is, however, still obvious enough that canny Brits I've just met will say something like, "I can't place your accent..." when really they mean, "You sound American, or maybe Canadian, but I can't quite tell the difference, and I know it might be insulting to assume you're American if it turns out you're Canadian, so help me out here."

For me, the difference between a Canadian and an American accent is usually obvious, and my spidey senses tingle when I hear the loud nasal tone of a gang of American tourists on the tube reading out the station names on the map.  Then again, even that instinct sometimes fails me.  I had a colleague on the Ceremonies who I was convinced was American.  He was just a bit too loud and annoying to be Canadian.  Imagine my chagrin when I found out he was a countryman.  It was like he was letting down the side.  I realise this makes it sound like I think all Americans are loud, nasal and annoying which is, of course, not at all true.  Many individual Americans I know are lovely people.  And as a nation they actually managed to elect and then re-elect Barack Obama so maybe I should lay off them a bit.  (Still, they do have a lot to answer for.  Like, for instance, aerosol cheese.)

But back to me again.  For the record, here are a few of the things I can now hear in a heavy Western Canadian accent.  We tend to say "tuh" instead of "to" and "in-tuh" instead of "into", "fer" instead of "for" and "yer" instead of "your".  And final "ty"s in words are often turned into "dy"s or lost completely.  As in, "I'm goin' tuh the store fer beer. I'll be gone fer about twenny minutes. Do ya need anything fer yer pardee at the Cummunidy Cenner?"  (This is obviously a broad interpretation, but I think it's pretty much right.  Or should I say "priddy" much?)

We've got a charming insistence on pronouncing every syllable in every word, a habit that's completely alien in places where "Leicester" is pronounced "Lester" and "Cholmondeley" is unaccountably truncated to "Chumley".  We also give the humble "R" its due and actually pronounce it, whereas Brits generally treat an R in the middle of a word as a kind of silent placeholder.  There's also... I don't know... a quality of earnest perkiness?  It's hard to quantify, but I know that whenever someone over there imitates my accent their voice goes up and it's a bit like they're pretending to be a cartoon character.  Sort of like this guy:


He's just givin' 'er.

Listening for accents has become a bit of a sport for me, and everyone in the country is my coach.  I'm forever nudging a friend or co-worker and whispering, "Is that Scouse or Brummie?  Or "Oh, I know that one... VERY Northern Ireland!"  I'm not good at imitating other accents myself, but my ears are definitely learning to hear not only the accents of others, but my own too.

But I'm telling you, I do NOT say aboot.



Bonus New Zealand accent joke: Recent studies indicate that men in New Zealand think about six every sivin minutes. (Hearing the difference between an Aussie and a Kiwi accent is a bit like hearing the difference between Americans and Canadians.  Subtle, and best left to natives.  Though the Kiwis really do have some odd vowel sounds.  For instance, they write with pins and surf the antuh-nit.)

Additional bonus generic Canadian joke that doesn't have anything to do with accents but is still funny: How do you get a group of Canadian out of a swimming pool in an emergency? You say: "Please get out of the swimming pool."

The Games People Play: Rambling

Monday, December 10, 2012

First of all, apologies for missing my self-imposed deadline to have a fresh blog posted every Sunday morning.  I have no excuse, except perhaps for the fact that I had a bit of getting ready to do for my trip home to Canada for Christmas.  In truth, that didn't really take a whole lot of time, but getting here was time-consuming and distracting.  For instance, I had to take THREE different flights (London to Newark, Newark to Denver and Denver to Saskatoon), making for the longest Thursday ever.  I can't believe that was the best combination of flight times and price.

On the plus side: Because I was forced to be conscious for about 24 hours straight, I had the time to stare at the crossword until I actually finished it, despite the fact that it fought back every step of the way.  Also, I ALMOST finished the Telegraph Toughie crossword which I have never even come close to cracking before.  And I don't even feel badly about missing those last two clues because I later found out that one of the answers was SPILIKINS which... what the Hell?  Is that even English?  

Then again, on the minus side: On the Newark to Denver leg of the trip I ended up sitting in between a man and a woman who were both of the species Mobilis Textus Addicticus, and were texting the whole time we were sitting on the plane waiting to push off.  When the announcement came that it was time to turn off all phones, I suppose I misheard because they actually must have said "All phones except for you people in Row 26, who can keep texting for as long as you want because you are SPECIAL."  Honestly, we were actually taxiing down the runway and these people were still at it.  At one point I almost leaned over to Mr. 26D and said, "Look buddy, unless you are actually talking someone through an emergency appendectomy via text message, TURN OFF THE FREAKIN' PHONE."  Why are people so stupid?

But none of that has anything to do with the topic of today's blog which is another in our series about recreational past times. Today, we're walking.  However, I'm not talking about normal, boring, every day walking - the kind of self-propelled movement of oneself to the pub or bus stop or corner shop.  What I'm talking about is sometimes referred to here as "rambling" and is about striking out across the countryside in a pair of stout boots to tromp through muddy fields and up hills and past sheep.  (We'd generally call this hiking in North America.)  After my pleasant walk along the Devon coastline with Anne a few weeks ago, I decided it might be enjoyable to try some longer walks on my own, especially since I've got the time for this sort of thing right now.  Luckily, Google quickly directed me to the website of the Saturday Walkers Club which was so perfectly suited to my needs it's a bit astonishing. Their website boasts a collection of more than 160 different walks in the south of England, each of which is easily accesible from London by public transport, meticulously documented with directions and maps, and crafted to take one past a convivial rural pub at about lunch time and somewhere for a cup of tea at the end.  All for free.

Rambling is apparently the most popular outdoor recreational activity in England, and I can understand why.  The country is perfectly suited to it.  First of all, the place is TINY.  If I tried to go for a nice ten mile walk here in Saskatchewan I might manage to make it from one farmer's property to the next and could hope to see, er, some wheat, and perhaps some more wheat.  In England ten miles takes you through dozens of small fields, up and down hills, through woods, alongside rivers, into and out of three or four tiny villages, past a couple of medieval-era churches, perhaps near a castle or a country estate and to so many ridiculously picturesque viewpoints it's, well, ridiculous.

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See what I mean?  This is the ornamental folly on Temple Island, at Henley-on-Thames, which astute fans of the Olympic Opening Ceremony may remember from the show's opening sequence.  Nice bird too.

The other important feature that England boasts which is absolutely crucial to the art of rambling is its huge network of public footpaths.  Public Rights Of Way, as they are technically known, are legally protected pathways that the public have the right to use.  Most cut through private lands but are available to anyone travelling on foot; many have been in use for hundreds of years and are jealously protected by walkers and walking clubs.  I think this is the result of the fact that the whole island has been so thoroughly tramped, civilised and mapped for, well, millennia.

Footpaths
This is a photo I took of a map of a corner of countryside near Hever Castle in Kent.  Everything lined in yellow is a public footpath.  As you can see there are rather a lot of paths shown, and this is a vanishingly tiny bit of the country.

My first walk was a fairly challenging 11 mile loop starting and ending at Knockholt station, which is so close to London it's actually accessible with an Oyster card.  I downloaded the walk directions onto my phone (trusting in the claim that a map really was not necessary) packed a dry pair of shoes and socks, some chocolate biscuits, and some fruit into a backpack and headed out to the train station.  Since this was my first walk, I wasn't equipped with anything so sensible as waterproof boots, because I wasn't going to spend money on fancy walking boots when I didn't even know if I'd enjoy this walking business.  I went in an old pair of running shoes.  This proved to be a slight miscalculation on my part because approximately four steps along my first grass path, the toes of my shoes were soaked through.  At this point (300 metres into an 18km walk) I resigned myself to the fact that my feet would be wet for the next 6 hours.  Luckily, despite the fact that my fingers and toes will quickly turn into blocks of ice when I've sitting at home watching tv, if I'm on the move my feet almost always stay toasty.  I've run entire marathons in shoes that were so wet they squelched.

I was a bit nervous about the whole thing, but I needn't have worried.  First of all, you're never far from help in rural Kent - it's not exactly Scott-of-the-Antarctic territory.  And really, the walking club directions really are exemplary.  Here's an excerpt from that first walk, to give you an idea of their meticulous detail:
"In 180 metres at the valley bottom go through a wooden kissing gate as the footpath starts to ascend. After 120 metres go through a metal kissing gate and up into a wood.  In 80 metres at a path T-junction turn half-right up a bridleway. After 45 metres ignore a footpath to the left and continue through what is now a wooded field border." (Knockholt Circular Walk number 7)
It is generally pretty hard to go wrong, and quite fun to come up over a hill and be able to see the next fence, wood or gate, exactly where it's supposed to be.  It's a bit like a scavenger hunt, and is immensely satisfying.  And, on the rare occasions when the directions were not crystal clear, I usually had enough signal on my phone to call up the map on the website to double check, or even use the compass app to confirm my heading.  All in all, the system works really well, especially is you're able to recognise a few key types of landmark such as:

Kissing Gate
A typical kissing gate, a way of keeping a field closed to livestock or motorised vehicles, but open to walkers, without having to rely on someone to close the gate.

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A stile, which comes in many forms and is simply a way of helping people climb over a fence.  This one has a little hatch to the right to allow dogs to pass through.

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A squeeze gate, another way of keeping livestock corralled while allowing walkers to squeeze through the tapered gap in the middle. This one also shows the helpful yellow flags that indicate public rights of way and the green "walking man" signpost that's a dead giveaway.  Also: sheep!

The walking club directions are all that I need 99% of the time.  Though part of the fun of rambling is lost when you can't bust out a 1:25,000 scale Explorer series Ordnance Survey map.  The OS map is a creation of the Ordnance Survey, the national mapping agency of Great Britain.  They produce several scales of map, but the one most useful for walkers and cyclists is the astonishingly detailed 1:25,000 series, which covers the entire island of Great Britain in 403 sheets.

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Here's a look at what the OS map for part of my Knockholt walk looks like.  The green highlighted line is the route of the walk.  These OS maps are really just fantastic - they're so detailed that individual buildings are shown.  And how can you not love a country with places like "Pratt's Bottom" and "Birthday Wood"? 

As Bill Bryson writes in "Notes from a Small Island", on the subject of the wonderfulness of Ordnance Survey maps:
"As a rule, I am not terribly comfortable with any map that doesn't have a You-Are-Here arrow on it somewhere, but the Ordnance Survey maps are in a league of their own. Coming from a country where mapmakers tend to exclude any landscape feature smaller than, say, Pike's Peak, I am constantly impressed by the richness of detail on the OS 1:25,000 series. They include every wrinkle and divot of the landscape, every barn, milestone, wind pump and tumulus. They distinguish between sand pits and gravel pits and between power lines strung from pylons and power lines strung from poles. This one even included the stone seat on which I sat now. It astounds me to be able to look at a map and know to the square metre where my buttocks are deployed." 
Despite the lack of an OS map, I managed to finish that first walk successfully, though I did have to jog the last mile or so in order to get back to the train station before simultaneously losing the daylight and missing the train.

Shoes
My shoes, after 12 miles of puddles and mud.  The picture doesn't really properly portray the comprehensive muddiness and toe-wrinkling wetness.  I have since invested in a pair of inexpensive but waterproof walking boots which, despite the conventional wisdom that cheap boots are a false economy that will quickly lead to blisters and tears, have performed perfectly and carried me through a lot of November mud.

Since that first walk, I completed a lovely Sunday afternoon ramble at Henley, which included a nice section through the Great Wood and ended at a place called the Chocolate Theatre CafĂ©. (It's like they knew I was coming.  Even better, it was just around the corner from the "London Real Ale Harry Potter Marmite and Cheese Double Decker Bus Free Wifi Pub".)  I also did a nice walk from Chorleywood to Chesham, though the day was quite hazy so I was forever reading directions that said something like "Follow the path up the hill with the field on your right, not forgetting to turn around at the top to take in the stunning view of the Chess River Valley" which turned out, in my case, to be rather underwhelming sea of grey.  Though it did make for a nice series of shots of a lonely tree in the middle of a field:

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The middle of the series.

Quite often on these walks, I've ended up going through fields that are actually full of livestock - usually sheep, which just run away when you get near them, but sometimes cows or horses.  On one memorable occasion I passed through a field with a group of cows some distance away when one of them spotted me and started the whole lot bellowing while it proceeded, with some haste, to canter towards me in a distinctly menacing fashion.  (And if you think cows can't be menacing I assure you that you are quite wrong.) Luckily, I wasn't far from the gate and managed to escape before the advance Cow Guard arrived and things got ugly.  Not long after I met a woman heading towards the field in the other direction.  I think it's a measure of how assimilated I've become that I didn't say something like, "Christ, be careful in there, those cows are freaking mental!"  Nope.  I said, "The cows in the next field are a bit territorial today" and left it at that.  Well I mean there's no reason to make a fuss is there?

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Much friendlier.

I'll certainly be doing more rambling when I get back to England after Christmas.  As much as I love London, it really is nice to get out of the city sometimes and see a bit of countryside. And now that I've actually bought a pair of boots, I'm sure that I'll soon be tucking the cuffs of my trousers into the top of my socks, which seems to be the mandatory uniform of the English Walker.  (It must be a way of allowing them to recognise one another, because from a practical standpoint I can't see why it's preferable to have mud on your socks instead of on your cuffs.)  And once the cuffs are tucked in, it won't be long before I'm snacking on Kendal Mint Cake.  At that point, the disease will progress inevitably to its terminal phase, when I'll certainly be discovered sitting on a rock at the top of a hill in a steady drizzle, with a plastic-clad OS map dangling around my neck, munching on a soggy cress sandwich with a thermos of hot tea at my side and muttering, "Ooooh, lovely" and "Oh, I couldn't possibly be so naughty" when some other anorak-clad nutter offers me a bloody rich tea biscuit.

God, I need a job...

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Another of the picturesque shots that come a dime-a-dozen on a typical walk.


P.S.  More pictures from my various walks can be found at Flickr, in the set called "Rambling"

Off the tourist track: Crossbones Graveyard

Sunday, December 2, 2012

We're off the tourist track a lot lately, a phenomenon I attribute to my continuing and persistent unemployed state which means I've got a lot of time, but not a lot of money.  As a result, those quirky, off-beat things that don't require you to pony up £15 and stand in a long queue on a Saturday afternoon, but do require a bit of local knowledge and flexibility of schedule are right up my alley.  Today I finally get to blog about something that's been on my list for ages now, discovered on the sunny Sunday that I rode a Brompton around the City.  It's either quirky, or weird, or spiritual, or stupid, or cool, depending on your mood.

Crossbones graveyard is a mass burial ground on the south side of the Thames, not far from London Bridge.  Back in the day, the area south of the Thames was a bit of a Wild West, if you'll pardon the obviously directionally challenged analogy.  The City of London was (and still is) on the north side of the river, where laws against bull and bear baiting, prostitution, and such perversely debauched practices as theatre were enthusiastically enforced.  On the south side, in an area known as "The Liberty of the Clink", such practices were permitted.  And yes, "the Clink" does refer to a prison. In fact, the prison called The Clink is the one from which we get the euphemism.  It's just down the road from Crossbones and is now a somewhat cheesy tourist attraction (please try to contain your surprise).  Activities in The Liberty of the Clink were under the jurisdiction of the Bishop of Winchester, who actually licensed prostitutes to work in the area, a bit of such stunning hypocrisy it's hard to credit, but true nonetheless.  The prostitutes became known, therefore, as Winchester Geese.

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Photo of the plaque on the gates, taken on that Sunday afternoon bicycle tour.

The burial ground known as Crossbones was the unconsecrated final resting place for many of these women, who, despite the fact that their trade was allowed, could not be buried in hallowed ground.  Along with them are interred a heart-breaking number of children (the two tend to go hand in hand of course), and site later became a more general pauper's grave. The earliest reference to it dates to 1598 (and implied that the site had already been in use for a long time) and the area was closed to burials in 1853 because it was "completely overcharged with dead".  It lay largely unused until Transport for London started planning for the new Jubilee line extension between 1991 and 1998.  Archeologists from the Museum of London conducted excavations in connection with the TFL work and estimates are that greater than 15,000 bodies were buried at the site.  More than one third of these were infants and a further eleven percent were children under the age of one; the adult bodies were mostly women.  And, since even the most flint-hearted bureaucrat would have trouble justifying building a power substation in the middle of a graveyard full of babies, the land is still unused and remains a fenced off vacant lot near the corner of Union Street and Recross Way.

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Crossbones poster, on Union Street

And this is where it all starts to get a bit airy fairy.  Since its rediscovery Crossbones has become a local landmark and a sort of non-denominational shrine to what's referred to as "the outcast dead".  Much of this is driven by the work of John Constable, an actor and writer who lives in the area.  Constable has composed an epic poem in the voice of one of the prostitutes, a spirit he calls "The Goose", saying the poem was revealed to him in one night, on the 23rd of November in 1996.  In explaining this event, Constable says the writings "… were revealed by The Goose to John Crow at Crossbones... My shamanic double had somehow raised the Spirit of a medieval Whore, licensed by a Bishop, yet allegedly denied Christian burial…"  The trickster John Crow is Constable's alter-ego, part spirit, part character, part shaman, and all a bit hard to swallow.

(And this is what I mean when I say it gets a bit airy fairy.  It's really hard to know how to approach the whole topic, and I admit I've been having trouble finding a voice for this post that's respectful on one hand, but appropriately sceptical on the other, and still with a good splash of the smart-ass blogger that is, admittedly, my own alter-ego.  Nonetheless, let us plough on.)

Constable now conducts a vigil at the gates of Crossbones on the 23rd of every month (held on that date as a nod to the night in 1996) and that's what I attended last week, along with my friend Emma, who has already appeared in the blog. The Crossbones website has this to say about the vigils:
Vigils have been held on the 23rd of every month since June 2004. They are inclusive, secular events, open 'to all faiths and none'... Please bring a flower, a ribbon, a totem, a memento to tie to the shrine at the gates. FREE - donations welcome.
Naturally Emma and I didn't read the thing soon enough to equip ourselves with ribbons, totems or mementos of any kind, but we went anyways, and when we arrived there was a crowd of about 20 people gathered in the dark outside the steel gates to the site.  The gates themselves have become quite a sight.  After more than a hundred vigil's worth of mementos, they're festooned with layer upon layer of tokens and what-nots.

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Here's Emma, examining one of the many ribbons on the gates to Crossbones.  Some of them commemorate the dead of long ago, but many acknowledge current sex workers, and the site has become something of a touchstone for them and those who work with them.

The vigil was as you might expect.  John Constable was there and did most of the talking, telling us about the history of the site and the area in general, which was all interesting.  And you may not be surprised to learn there was a generously large dose of that particular kind of non-denominational modern "I'm-not-religious-but-I-am-spiritual" business that a smart ass blogger might call "malarky" and a more generous soul would see as "ritual".  For instance, the event was started when John dinged together a tiny pair of suspended cymbals at the stroke of seven pm, and then banged away on one of those little spinning hand drums. There were chants that the more experienced people in the crowd recited, along with the inevitable incense and candles and people with guitars who performed songs they'd written.

Crossbones Candles
Not a great photo, but it was dark and I was loathe to bust out the flash

Much of the focus of the ritual is on the concept of "The Goose" which is meant to personify the spirit of the Winchester Geese who are buried at Crossbones, and, by extension, all of "The Outcast Dead".  In this way it's actually a nice sentiment.  And because it was the November vigil, and John Constable's poem was revealed to him on that night in November of 1996, every November vigil has the pleasure of hearing John perform his poem live.  This was quite good, as the poem itself is lyrical and interesting.  I enjoyed it, though I admit my thought process did go a bit like this:
"Hey, this is cool... this guy is obviously a trained actor, and that poem is quite good... interesting language... hmmm it's a bit cold out here... he's still at it... wow, that's a lot of lines to learn... still good though... gosh, still?... really?... starting to phase out here... look at all those ribbons... oh God, does that guy have a guitar?... my goodness, I guess this is what they mean by 'epic'..." and so on.  
And then he stopped, and said something like (I'm not kidding) "And that's just over half of the poem." Here's the first stanza (one of 34,518-ish):
'I was born a Goose of Southwark
by the Grace of Mary Overie
whose Bishop gives me licence
To sin within The Liberty.'
There was also a call for anyone in the crowd to contribute a reading or a song or other remembrance or whatever.  This is when the compulsory guitar people stepped up, and a little girl in the crowd also sang a couple of songs that were, objectively speaking, awful. (But also cute and totally acceptable because she was about 8 years old and she sang two songs, unaccompanied, in front of a crowd of strangers, so good on her.)  Ribbons were made available for anyone who wanted to leave one on the gate, and the ceremony culminated in some more general chanting: "Goose may you never be hungry! Goose may you never be thirsty! Goose may your spirit fly free!"  Finally, a whole bottle of gin was poured out on the ground in a large circle encompassing all the people, guitars and candles. (Gin, of course, was the favoured tipple of London's wretched poor, especially in the 18th century, and hence is powerfully symbolic, of course.)

John Constable, at the gates
John Constable, at the gates

After it was over Emma and I retired to a lovely old wine bar that was about two and a half steps across the road where we tried to process what we'd just seen and then got distracted by the realisation that we were unexpectedly sitting at a table right next to a cousin of Emma's whom she hadn't seen in a while, leading to the cousin and his girlfriend joining us for a few more drinks and some friendly conversation, and leading whatever profound insight Emma and I had been on the verge of articulating to be lost forever in the deep upholstery and raised panelling and red wine.

And that was my evening at Crossbones.  I wish I could be a bit less cynical about the whole thing because they seem like lovely people and the sentiment was certainly genuine.  Luckily, there one thing I can recommend unreservedly: the Friends of Crossbones have an online petition that I'm totally in favour of.  Despite their incense and their chanting (which you may now realise I can't really get behind) the idea that this site should be preserved and remembered in an appropriate and sensitive way is one that I am completely in favour of.  I signed it, and you don't have to be a Londoner, or even live in England to do the same, so here's the link, decide for yourself: Crossbones Petition.
We, the undersigned, call on Transport For London and all other interested parties to support the protection and conservation of the Cross Bones Memorial Gates and to work towards the creation of a Memorial Garden and public park on the historically sensitive site of the Cross Bones Graveyard adjoining Redcross Way and Union Street.
I do honestly think that the Friends of Crossbones are doing an indisputably good thing by making sure the site is not forgotten (again), paved over (again), and turned into a mobile phone shop, a Starbucks, and Tesco Express.  I just wish they could do it in a way that's slightly less flaky.  I mean c'mon... incense?



P.S.  There are a lot of videos on Youtube about Crossbones, I think this one gives the best sense of who John Constable is, and what the place is like, and the ritual and people involved. It's about ten minutes long. (Note: this shows people getting through the gates and onto the site itself, which was not part of the vigil I attended.)